Torres del Paine - Trekking the W

Torres del Paine National Park provides some of the world’s most amazing trekking. You could spend weeks exploring this area’s amazing scenery but time has a way of always being in short supply. With that in mind I have outlined here some of the most important information you’ll need to independently tackle the “w” trek which lies at the very heart of the Torres Del Paine National Park.

The “w” circuit is usually completed over 4-5 days depending on where you hike to, where you stay, and how long you have.

There is no best way to trek the “w” trails but I have suggested below a path for your adventure. This route is designed to maximize your time and effort so you can enjoy the park at its very best.

why is it called the “w”?

Quite simply that’s the shape which the trail makes on a map.

Speaking of maps, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with these linked maps in order to help you fully plan your trip.

when should you go?

The trekking season lasts from around October to April and in the summer months you can enjoy up to 18 hours of daylight due to the park’s southern location. That said, I'm sure you have heard that the park is notorious for its extreme and unpredictable climate. The wind can make trekking extremely difficult with gusts often experienced in excess of 100 km/h. Tents are flattened and hikers have been knocked over and injured.

Our tip: prepare for the worst conditions but I hope you get the best!

If you are keen to see what the weather is like at the moment in Puerto Natales click here

how difficult is the trek?

This depends on your experience and fitness but generally speaking the terrain is generally of a medium to difficult standard. There are parts of the trek which are steep with loose footings, e.g. the last portion of the climb to the Mirador Las Torres.

The trails on the “w” are well marked and there is very little chance of getting lost. There is no reason why you would require an independent guide unless you are chasing expert commentary on specific areas of interest.

what will you see?

• unforgettable views at every turn
• glacier fed lakes
• snow capped granite pillars
• glaciers and ice avalanches
• geological wonders
• pure alpine creeks and rivers
• magellanic forests
• meadows and swampy grass lands
• unique wildlife (guanacos, condors, fox, hares, flamingos and even pumas if you are very lucky)

what if you want more?

Then I suggest you take on the full Paine Circuit - in excess of 100 km over 8-10 days.

Suggested Itinerary

I hope the following itinerary assists you in planning your adventures into the Torres del Paine National Park and specifically the ‘w’ circuit.

Please be aware that the weather in the park is highly unpredictable and can change in an instant. Accordingly, whilst specific plans are recommended they should also be fairly fluid and allow for adjustments should the need arise.

I highly recommend that you think carefully about how you want to enjoy the ‘w’ as each day involves long hiking over, at times, difficult terrain.

You should take into consideration your fitness, the time you have to play with, whether you have special interests (e.g. photography), and what your comfort thresholds are. Whilst we all walk the same paths the sleeping and dining facilities range from the rough and economical (using all you own equipment and cooking your own meals) right through to the more luxurious refugio options (dorm beds, hot showers and hearty meals). These options are examined in more detail below.

Whatever method you choose you are bound to experience some of the most specular scenery on the earth and I am highly jealous that you’ll probably be back there before I am!

day 1

Organize to catch one of the morning buses to the park which you can book to leave from your Puerto Natales hostel between 7:30 am and 8:00 am. The bus takes roughly 2 1/2 hours to reach the park entrance where you’ll have to pay the 15,000 cps entrance fee. In the peak season there is an afternoon bus that departs around 2:00 pm.

Remain on the bus until it reaches Guarderia Lago Pudeto on Lago Pehoe. Here you board the catamaran (11,000 cps) for the ride across the lake to Refugio Pehoe and its associated campground. If there is time before the catamaran departs (you’ll need about 30-45 minutes) I suggest you make the short walk to see the nearby Salto Grande waterfalls.

From Refugio Pehoe hike to Lago Grey and spend the night camping at Campamento Las Guardas (free) or Refugio Grey.

Average walk time: 3 - 4 hours

day 2

After taking in the stunning ice walls of the glacier and marveling at the floating icebergs in the lake, make your way back to Refugio Pehoe and then on to make camp at Campamento Italiano (free - though check that this camp ground is open as flooding has caused its closure at times in recent years).

Average walk time: 5.5 - 6 hours

day 3

My favorite part of the “w” - the Valle Frances. As you hike up the valley past Mirador Frances to Campamento Britanico you will take in views of the Torres (3 granite towers) from the south-east, see and hear avalanches in the mountain tops above and soak up the vistas of Cuernos del Paine (horn like mountain top) back down the valley towards Lago Nordenskjol and beyond. Hike onto Refugio Los Cuernos and rest for the night by the lake. If you are feeling brave take an invigorating dip in the lake to freshen up before cooking dinner.

Average walk time: 5 - 5.5 hours

day 4

Today’s hike takes you along the banks of Lago Nordenskljold and up into Rio Ascensio valley.

If you are looking to make it to the Mirador Las Torres in order to take in the spectacular sight of the three Torres (Torre D`Agostini 2850m, Torre Central 2800m, and Torre Monzino 2600m) at sunrise the following morning you will need to camp at either Refugio Chileno or Campamento Torres (free).

Average walk time: 7 - 8 hours

day 5

After experiencing the beauty of granite Torres changing colors with the onset of dawn, hike back to Refugio Las Torres. Here you can either catch the midday minibus back to Guarderia Laguna Amarga (to avoid a 7 km dusty walk) where it connects with the larger buses for the return trip to Puerto Natales or spend your final night at Refugio Las Torres. Don’t forget to buy yourself a celebratory beer at the fancy Hosteria Las Torres - you’ve deserved it.

Average walk time: 5 - 6 hours

Getting There

LAN and other carriers fly from Santiago, Buenos Aires and other parts of South America into Punta Arenas. From there you will need to transfer to Puerto Natales by bus.

If you are coming from Argentina’s El Calafate region (where you can explore the surreal Puerto Moreno glacier & impressive Fitz Roy ranges) you will need to travel by bus to Puerto Natales in Chile before journeying into the park. Unfortunately, there are currently no direct public buses to the park from El Calafate. This is somewhat frustrating as the Argentina / Chile border crossing is 63 kms north of Puerto Natales on the way to the park.

Unless you have rented your own wheels, you will need to catch a bus for the 150 km journey from Puerto Natales to the park. This takes around 2 - 2 1/2 hours. You can book this at most hostels in Puerto Natales, and you only need to organize it a day or so in advance.

Puerto Natales is a quaint fishing village and serves as a good base to stock up on supplies and rent all types of equipment, if needed, before heading into the park.

Where to Stay

Refugios

Refugios are basically large mountain cabins which offer dorm bed sleeping arrangements. They have hot showers, toilet facilities and offer hearty cooked meals. They also have a bar to quench your thirst and help those aching muscles.

They cost around the US$40 - US$45 mark a night for a bed only or US$75 - US$85 for the full board option.

Given there are only a set number of beds in each refugio I recommend, especially in the high season, that you book each nights’ accommodation a month or two in advance where possible. To make a reservation, contact Fantástico Sur at reservas@fantasticosur.com or visit their website fantasticosur.com

Some refugios do not supply sheets so you should still consider taking your own sleeping bag.

your own tent

By having your own tent you not only avoid the need to hire gear in Puerto Natales but you can camp in all camp grounds including those run in association with the refugios. At the privately run refugio camp grounds expect to pay around US$7.50 per person per night to pitch your tent. This means you get the luxury of the camp ground facilities but can sleep in your own cosy tent.

Remember that camping at the CONAF sites of Los Guardes, Italiano, Britanico & Los Torres is free!

hire a tent on site

If you are looking to carry a little less weight in your pack we highly recommend this option. The tents are pre-erected so all you need to do is lob in and roll out your sleep mat. When the wind is blowing this can be a real treat. The cost of hiring the tent is around US$11 a night and is in addition to the nightly charge per camper.

As well as the tents you can also hire sleeping bags and sleep mats. You just can’t take them with you from refugio to refugio or to the ‘free’ CONAF camp grounds.

I'm sure you have a good idea of what you’ll need to hike in the Torres del Paine National Park. But just in case I thought I’d give you a checklist to ensure nothing is left at home.

If you do forget something or are traveling light and looking to hire equipment in Puerto Natales I have included a rough guide to costs involved (in $US). Hire equipment is readily available but if you are looking to travel in peak season you should consider contacting rental outlets in Puerto Natales before you arrive.

Just remember you have to carry everything that you take so pack light but pack smart.

clothing

• comfortable hiking boots / all-terrain shoes & sandals
• thick socks
• base layers
• waterproof (e.g. Gore-Tex) shell jacket and pants ($5-$6 each per day to hire)
• warm fleece
• hiking pants and shorts
• hat / cap / beanie
• gloves

Tip:I recommend you use a ‘dirty’ set of clothing to hike in during the day. These are the clothes that will most likely become wet and muddy throughout your hiking day. Then once you have set up camp in the afternoon change into your ‘clean’ set of clothes to enjoy the camp for the night. Then, in the morning jump back into the ‘dirty’ set before heading off to explore.

equipment

• tent ($5-$8 per day depending on size)
• sleeping bag ($5 per day)
• sleep mat ($2 per day)
• backpack (large enough to carry your clothing, food and equipment for 4-5 days)
• food (basic items & hot meals are available at the refugios for a premium price)
• camp stove, fuel & matches / lighter
• plate, bowl, cutlery, cup, cooking pot
• pocketknife
• water bottle (the flowing water in Torres del Paine is pure and potable)
• trekking poles ($4-$5 per day)
• torch / headlamp
• repair kit (tape, needle & tread etc.)
• first-aid kit
• map (you receive a free map when you pay your park entrance fee)
• plastic bags / garbage bags
• lip balm, sun screen (with high sun protection factor) & sunglasses
• repellant
• toilet paper / sanitary wipes
• treats / snacks (to give you a ‘pick me up’ on long hikes)
• guidebooks

Tip:Before heading into the park I suggest you use a thick garbage bag as a liner inside your backpack. Then use smaller plastic bags to separate your clothing, food and personal equipment inside your backpack. I also recommend that you use the same trick to line the inside of the bag which houses your sleeping bag. That way if your backpack gets wet, it contents will still be dry - saving you from sleeping in soggy clothes in a soaked sleeping bag.

That’s about it from me - just remember the best way to enjoy the park is to take it on your terms. If you are happy to stay is a hotel and take leisurely day walks into the park then that’s what you should do. People often become unstuck and fail to enjoy what the park has to offer because they are either unprepared or believe that the only way to hike a wilderness area like Torres del Paine is by trying to transform into some type of ‘hard core’ mountaineer when that isn’t the way they normally enjoy their holidays.

Set yourself realistic goals that fit within your budget, fitness levels, and timeframes and I'm sure that you will be in the best position to make the most of your adventure into the ‘w’.